A French Edwardian blouse pattern

March 4, 2014 at 9:50 PM 4 comments

I ought to have posted by now with my finished HSF challenge 4 but I have not yet finished it. It is nearly done, but now I’ve missed the deadline I don’t feel like busting a gut on it, so it is happily being knitted as a TV project rather than an every minute I can knit project.

I have been thinking about the next one though, which is a bodice of some kind. As it happens, my unfinished challenge 4 could count as it is a vest, but I have this original Edwardian pattern I bought on ebay.

1904 French blouse

1904 French blouse

It’s in French, which I am not very good at, but I’ve had a stab with the ‘help’ of Google translate. I say help because it has tried to tell me one of my patterns should be the size of a single room, rather than cut in one piece :D but I have also had the offer of help from real French speakers who also do the HSF (merci boucoup!) so I am going to post the instructions here with google’s translation which I have cleaned up a little and commented on. I don’t know why the font changes size, except word press doesn’t always like formatting copied and pasted from word processors, but maybe it is only looking odd on my screen?

The instructions in their original print.

The instructions in their original print.

Ce boléro ne sera pas doublé sauf l’empiècement,le col et les poignets qui seront doublés d’une percale.

This bolero will not be doubled except the yoke, collar and cuffs to be lined with a percale (which is a tightly woven cotton, often used for bed sheets).

Couper une hauteur pour les devants et une hauteur pour le dos. Les devants seront coupés en plaçant le milieu du devant le long de la lisière du linon. Le lé du dos sera plié en deux dans le sens de la longeur et le milieu du dos placé le long de ce pli pour avoir le dos sans couture.

Cutting height for front and back height. The front will be cut by placing the center front along the edge of the lawn. The back is folded in half along the length and the middle back placed along the crease to get back seamlessly.

Les empiècements 3 et 4 seront coupés doubles, celui du dos sans couture derrière. Laisser un cm de tissu tout autour pour prendre les coutures. Chaque manche est coupée dans une largeur de linon; le pointillé du croquis sera droit til. Le poignet et le col seront coupés en linon et en percale comme doublure. Le col sera sans couture derrière.

Yokes 3 and 4 will double cut, the back seamless behind. Leave a cm of fabric around to make the seams. Each round is cut in a wide lawn, dotted sketch will til law (!!! I think it must mean something like that the yoke is edged, perhaps with lace, as shown on the drawing shaded with dots). Wrist and neck will be cut and percale linen as lining. The neck is seamless behind.

Apprêter l’empiècement, assembler les coutures d’épaule indiquées par un cran sur le croquis. Essayer et échancrer l’encolure sur la personne.

Prepare yoke, assemble the shoulder seams indicated by a notch on the sketch. Try échancrer and neck on the person.

La doublure sera légèrement soutenue sous l’empiècement. Faire 3 rangs de fronces au haut et 3 rangs au bas des devants. Ces fronces seront, la première, au bord de la couture, les autres espacées de 1cm. Ces fronces sont arrêtées à environ 5cm du milieu de chaque devant.

The lining is slightly supported under the yoke. Make 3 rows of ruffles at the top and bottom 3 rows of the front. These creases are, first, to the edge of the seam, the other spaced 1cm. These gathers are stopped at about 5cm middle of each front.

Le dos sera également garni de 3 rangs de fronces en haut et en bas correspondant à celles des devants. Bàtir les coutures de dessons de bras. Bâtir le boléro à l’empiècement. Tirer les fronces du bas à la largeur de la taille de la personne, et celles du haut à la largeur de l’empiècement. Essayer, mettre autour du bolèro une bande linon droit fil sur laquelle sera appliqué l’entre-deux.

The back is also lined with three rows of ruffles at the top and bottom corresponding to those of the front. Make the underarm seams. Construct the bolero yoke. Make the bottom ruching to the width of the size of the person, and those of the top to the width of the insert. Try putting a band around the Bolero linen thread on which law will be applied between the two.

Poser l’entre-deux sur l’empiècement, les devants et le bas du boléro. L’on remarquera qu’entre les deux rangs d’entre-deux du devant se trouve un espace formant gilet. Au milieu des devants seront des boutons et des boutonnières fermant le boléro. La garniture est complétée devant par une cravate en ruban fantaisie et deux losanges dentelle dans lesquels passera le ruban.

Put between the two (layers of the?) yoke, the front and the bottom of bolero(?). It is noted that between the two rows of two-front is a space forming a waistcoat. Amid will lead buttons and buttonholes closing the bolero (I assume they are saying the opening here should have a strip of reinforced fabric or something, as the picture seems to indicate more than just buttons applied to the single layer of lawn, which would not be strong enough?). The trim is complemented by a front tie fancy lace ribbon and two diamonds where will the ribbon (again, thank you google for making perfect sense :/ but it seems there is a wide ribbon tied round the neck with two lozenges of lace applied to it, from the picture. I would make a stab at the translation being ‘the trim is completed to the front with a tie of fancy ribbon with two lozenges of lace.

L’empiècement est garni de losanges comme le montre la figurine. Le col rabattu est uni. La manche est froncée en haut en le bas. Les fronces du bas sont ramenées à la largeur du poignet. Celui-ci est garni d’entre-deux et de losanges. La manche toute terminée sera montée au boléro. Ce boléro peut être fait en toile, dans ce cas les fronces seront remplacées par des petits plis dans le sens de la longueur. Rappelons qu’il est bon de décatir le tissu avant de l’employer pour éviter qu’il rétrécisse au premier blanchissage.

The yoke is trimmed with lozenges, as shown in figure. The turndown collar is attached. The sleeve is gathered up in the bottom. The gathers at the bottom are reduced to the width of the wrist. This is garnished with lozenges. The sleeve will be installed to finish the bolero. This can be done Bolero fabric(??? are you suggesting an alternate fabric here?), in this case the pleats are replaced by small folds in the length direction. Remember, it is good to (pre-wash, I assume) fabric before using it to prevent it from shrinking in the first laundering.

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HSF Challenge 3: Pink HSF 5 Bodice

4 Comments Add your own

  • 1. Miriam Marschall  |  March 5, 2014 at 3:33 PM

    A few comments on the translation:

    First paragraphe:
    doubler and doublure mean a lining.

    le pointillé du croquis sera droit til.

    It should read « droit fil » and not « droit til ». It means that the dotted line will be in the straight lain of the fabric.

    Essayer et échancrer l’encolure sur la personne.

    Try on and cut out ( decide on the final depth of) the neckline.

    Bàtir les coutures de dessons de bras. Bâtir le boléro à l’empiècement. (…). Essayer, mettre autour du bolèro une bande linon droit fil sur laquelle sera appliqué l’entre-deux.

    Tack, rather than make the underarm seams. Tack the bolero to the yoke. (…) Try on, fix around the bolera a strip of linen straight lain on which the inbetween (lining ? Vieseline?) will be applied.

    Poser l’entre-deux sur l’empiècement, les devants et le bas du boléro. L’on remarquera qu’entre les deux rangs d’entre-deux du devant se trouve un espace formant gilet. Au milieu des devants seront des boutons et des boutonnières fermant le boléro. La garniture est complétée devant par une cravate en ruban fantaisie et deux losanges dentelle dans lesquels passera le ruban.

    I think it should mean that you put an inforcement on the yoke, the front parts and the bottom of the bolero. You will see that between the two rows of « inforcement » there is a space in the form of a waistcoat. In the middle of the two front parts will be buttons and button holes to close the bolero. In the front, the trim is completed with a tie in any fabric and two lozenges of lace in which the ribbon will slide.

    La manche est froncée en haut en le bas. Les fronces du bas sont ramenées à la largeur du poignet. Celui-ci est garni d’entre-deux et de losanges. La manche toute terminée sera montée au boléro. Ce boléro peut être fait en toile, dans ce cas les fronces seront remplacées par des petits plis dans le sens de la longueur. Rappelons qu’il est bon de décatir le tissu avant de l’employer pour éviter qu’il rétrécisse au premier blanchissage.

    The sleeve is gathered at the top and at the bottom. (en haut et en bas). The ruffles at the bottom are reduced to the width of the wrist. The wrist is trimmed with « entre-deux » – (inforcement? Intervening ?) and lozenges. The finished sleeve will be fixed to the bolero. This boléro can be made in toile (light fabric, usually cotton). I also presume that « décâtir » means pre-wash, the word no longer exists in French.

    Reply
  • 2. Miriam Marschall  |  March 5, 2014 at 3:57 PM

    And I found décatir. It means to wash all chemicals out of a fabric.

    Reply
  • 3. knotrune  |  March 5, 2014 at 9:29 PM

    That’s great, thanks so much. Now I’m starting to understand what I have to do. Would you mind clarifying this: La doublure sera légèrement soutenue sous l’empiècement. The lining is slightly supported under the yoke. This does not make good sense to me, how can it be slightly supported?

    In fact, I am struggling to understand this whole section. This bit: Faire 3 rangs de fronces au haut et 3 rangs au bas des devants. Ces fronces seront, la première, au bord de la couture, les autres espacées de 1cm. Ces fronces sont arrêtées à environ 5cm du milieu de chaque devant. The yoke is 6.5cm narrower than the front body on each side. Does it mean do 3 small pleats, then 1cm, then 3 more small pleats, then another 1cm gap and a final 3 pleats? What is the 5cm? Is it that I should iron the pleats in but just for the first 5cm? Or is it just 3 larger pleats spaced 1cm apart? Or 1cm wide pleats spaced 5cm apart? Sorry to be so dense :)

    I *think* I understand the rest…

    I don’t have lawn so I shall going for the toile option, which means I don’t have to do pleats, but just folds, which supports the idea that the 5cm could mean ironing in the pleats, but I am only guessing.

    Reply
  • 4. Miriam  |  March 5, 2014 at 10:01 PM

    First question; Several times, the instruction only makes sense to me if it implies to enforce the fabric in some way, like viseline. This would stiffen the lining a bit. “soutenir” can also me hold or tighten.

    Second question: I understand it like this: You make three rows of ruffles at the top and three rows of ruffles at the bottom of the front pieces.
    The first of those ruffles will be at the border of the seam, the next two one centimeter apart each.
    The ruffles shall be stopped (?) 5 centimeters before the middle of each front part, so not reac the center of the front parts (where the buttons and button holes will be, as I understand it). But I am not fully sure how to say this in English actually.

    Reply

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